İzmir
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Image:Izmir Turkey Provinces locator.gifİzmir (Turkish contraction of its former Greek name Η Σμύρνη I Smýrni "the Smyrna"), the second-largest port (after İstanbul) and the third most populous city (2,409,000 in 2000) of Turkey, is located on the Aegean Sea near the Gulf of İzmir. It is the capital of the İzmir Province. Image:Izmir turkey.jpg
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History
- Image:Stop hand.png The factual accuracy of this section is disputed. Please view the article's talk page.
(See also: Smyrna.) Over the course of İzmir's history, the city has been renamed according to the language of the power ruling the city. The ancient Aeolian Greeks named the city Μύῥρα Mýrrha in their Aeolic dialect. After it was conquered by the Ionians, they renamed it Σμύρνη Smýrnē, the translation of the same name in their Ionic dialect (common ancestor *Smúrnā). The same form was used in Attic Greek, and consequently also in the predominant forms of the Greek language that followed, including Modern Greek. The Romans called the city Smyrna, the Latinate form of Smýrnē, and this Latin form is how the pre-Turkish city (including Greek and Roman periods) is generally known in English. From the time of Turkish arrival, the Turkish name İzmir gradually became the primary name of the city, and is how the modern city is generally known in English.
The 5000 year-old city, is one of the oldest cities of the Mediterranean basin. The original city was established in the third millennium B.C. (at present day Bayraklı, Karsiyaka), at which time it shared with Troy the most advanced culture in Anatolia. By 1500 BC it had fallen under the influence of Central Anatolian Hittite Empire. Greek settlement is attested by the presence of pottery dating from about 1000 BC. According to the famous Greek historian Herodotus (from Halicarnassus, modern-day Bodrum) the city was first established by the Aeolians, but shortly thereafter seized by the Ionians who developed it into one of the world's largest cultural and commercial centers of that period.
The original Myrrha was founded on an island at the northeast of the bay. During the recent centuries, Bornova Plain had been formed with the silt that was brought by torrents of River Meles from Mount Yamanlar (Sipylos) and the peninsula finally transformed into a hill. (A sample wine yard of İzmir Wine and Beer Factory of TEKEL Management is located on this hill called Tepekule.)
Although the first habitation of ancient Smyrna known to be dated from long before 3000 BC, excavations could only go back to 3000 B.C. In the light of the excavations, it is known that the first settlements were founded at the top of the hill at 3-5m high from sea level. This first settlement was dated from Ancient Bronze Age.
Hittites were using the writing (in 1800 to 1200 BC) in Anatolia, which helped to reach the historic ages. However, in 1200s BC, the tribes coming from Balkans demolished Troy VII and Hattusas, the capital of Hittites. With this, a Dark Age during the Iron Age restarted in Middle and West Anatolia. The Iron Age continued until writing was rediscovered in 730 BC in Phrygia and in 650 BC in the rest of the Middle and West Anatolia.
During the Iron Age the houses were huge, small, one roomed buildings. The oldest house that has been finally brought to daylight is dated at 925 to 900 BC The walls of this well-preserved one roomed house (2, 45 x 4 m) were all made of sun-dried bricks and the roof of the house was made of reeds.
People started to protect their hometown with thick ramparts made of sun-dried bricks. From now on Smyrna achieved an identity of city-state. A man called Baseleus was most probably in charge of the city. Migrants and bigwigs constituted the noble class. The population living inside the city walls were approximately a thousand people. The public of city-state was living in near-by villages. The fields, olive trees, vineyards, and the workshops of potters and stonecutters of ancient Smyrna were all located in those villages. People made their living on agriculture and fishing.
Homer
The first and the greatest poet of history and the poet of the legendary works named Iliad and Odyssey, Homer was born in Smyrna. There is no other poet like Homer, who lived between 750-700 BC. Seven cities claimed that Homer is their countryman. These cities are Salamis, Argos, Athens, Rhodes, Chios, Colophon, and Smyrna. It is impossible for him to be from Salamis, Argos, Athens or Rhodos since he wrote his legends with a mixture of Ionian-Aeolian style that are particularly Anatolian dialects. He is said to be exiled to Chios. For this reason there is a place called Homer Rocks on the particular island. Moreover, the most favourite nickname of Homer was ‘Melesigenes’ which means ‘Child of Meles Brook’. It becomes obvious that Homer was born in Smyrna since Meles Brook is located within the territory of the city. Homer’s masterpiece Iliad Legend that tells about the last forty days of the war that had continued for ten years between the Greeks and the Anatolian Trojans is constitute of 16,000 lines.
Homer’s second epic ‘Odyssey’, on the other hand, tells about the period ten years after the Trojan War. The trial of a warrior named Odysseus who is trying to return to his hometown is told in the epic. The epic is constituted of 12,000 lines. The oldest records of history and culture; ‘‘Iliad’’ and ‘‘Odyssey’’ continue their poetic influence in today’s world as the most impressive stories of world literature. Aristotle tells about the birth of Homer as: ‘‘Kriteis, the daughter of Ios Island gets pregnant by a deity during the Ion Migration. Although, she escapes to Egina, the pirates present her to the Lydian King Maion in Smyrna. Kriteis falls in love with the king and they get married. After a while, Kriteis gives birth to Homer near Meles Brook and dies after. Maion brings this child up and names him as ‘Melesigenes’ (‘Child of Meles’) to emphasize the place where he was born.’’ Although, various writers of antique age told different stories they agreed on two subjects concerning his life: The blind Homer was born in Smyrna and read his poems in the shores of Meles Brook and sing his legends with the accompaniment of lyre near the brook which flows to mingle with the sea.
The most important sacred place of the town was the Temple of Athens. The oldest ruin preserved until today dates back to 725-700 BC
The period in which the city had reached its peak was between 650-545 BC. This period lasted hundred-years and was considered to be the most powerful period of the whole Ionian civilization. Under the leadership of Miletus, colonies were established in Egypt, Syria, west coasts of Lebanon, Marmara region, Black Sea and eastern Greece competed and replaced the place of Greece proper in various fields and subjects. In this period, it is apparent that Smyrna not only dealed with agriculture but also participated in Mediterranean trade.
One of the most important signs of that great period in ancient Smyrna is the spreading of writing out beginning with 650 BC There were many presentation inscriptions in the gifts that were dedicated to goddess Athena. Few people among the public were literate. The temple of Athens found in excavations dated back to 640-580 BC The oldest and the most beautiful capitals have been found in İzmir.
The oldest model of many-roomed-type house of this period was found in ancient Smyrna. Known to be the oldest house having so many rooms under its roof, this house was built in the second half of 7th century BC The house is two-floored and has five rooms with a courtyard. The houses before this type were composed of megarons standing adjacent to each other. Smyrna was built on the Hippodamian system in which streets intersect at right angles even in the second half of 7th century, the streets were lying from north to south, and from east to west directions and the houses all overlooked to the south.
This city plan, which would take the name of Hippodamus later in 5th century B.C., had already been known in Near East. Bayraklı city plan is the earliest model of this type in the West. The oldest parquetry road of Ionian civilization was brought to daylight in ancient Smyrna.
The oldest civil work of Greek architecture in ancient Smyrna is the beautiful stone fountain, built in the first half of 7th century. Standing on Mount Yamanlar, the Tomb of Tantalus is a beautiful sample of the tholos type monumental tombs. The grave room of Tantalus’ tumulus was in the plan of the mentioned fountain, displaying a style called isopata that means the construction has a rectangle plan, covered by vaults made with corbel technique. Known as Tomb of Tantalus this monumental work is thought to be the tomb of Basileus or Tyrant who ruled ancient Smyrna in 580-520 BC
Tantalus
Tantalus, the son of Zeus was the only mortal that can dine with gods. He was so proud that he started to look down on the gods. In order to show the gods as cannibals, he sacrificed his son Pelops and served him in the dinner. However, the gods realized that it was human meat and left the table and sent Tantalus to hell. Tantalus stands in knee-deep clean water, but anytime he bends over to drink, the water is sucked up by the ground.
Whenever he wants to reach the most delicious fruits hanging above him, they rise up. In abundance of food and water, King Tantalus suffered from hunger and thirst since then it is called Tantalus Torture.
The English word ‘tantalize’ which means ‘‘desiring something but inability of getting’’ comes from this mythological story.
The richness of the city impressed the Lydians and caused them to battle with Smyrna. Lydian army captured the city in 610-600 BC and they fired and destroyed Smyrna. However, the people managed to re-build their city again.
The fall of ancient Smyrna is the result of the Persian invasion. The Persian emperor required the towns of Aegean coast to prop himself against Lydians while their army was going forward in Anatolia. In order to punish the towns, which refuse to support him, the Persian emperor attacked Smyrna with the other towns after conquering Sardis, the capital of Lydia. As a result of the attacks of Persian army, Smyrna was destroyed in 545 BC. After this great destruction, no city type settlement was observed in Bayraklı.
Alexander the Great defeated Darius in Issus in 333 BC and captured the whole East. The cities witnessed a great increase in population. During this period, Alexandria, Rhodes, Pergamon, and Ephesus reached a population over 100,000. A few thousand people could live in the city walls of ancient Smyrna founded on a small hill. Therefore, a new larger city was established on the skirts of Kadifekale in 300 BC
Becoming a Roman territory in 133 BC, Smyrna started to live a golden period for the second time. Due to the importance that the city achieved, the Roman emperors who came to Anatolia also visited Smyrna. Emperor Hadrian also visited Smyrna in his journey in A.D. 121 to 125.
The most important event that Smyrna witnessed in A.D. 178 was the devastating earthquake. Considered to be one of the severest disasters happened in the city, the earthquake razed the town to the ground. The destruction was so big that the support of the Empire for re-building was inevitable. Emperor Marcus Aurelius had such a great contribution in the rebuilding activities that the city was even founded again.
Various works of art are thought to be made in the city during the period of Roman Empire. The streets were completely covered with stones and these stones became dominant in the general view of the city. Among the constructions that were built in Smyrna during the Roman era, few traces remained from the stadium at west and from the theatre in the northwest skirt of Mount Pagos. On the other hand, the Agora of the state is well preserved.
After the Roman Empire had been separated, Smyrna became a territory of the East Roman Empire. Smyrna had become a religious center since the early times of Byzantines. However, the city did not display much progress. Although Attila the Hun took the control of the city, this sovereignty could not last long and the city was taken back by the Byzantines.
Turks first captured Smyrna under the command of Kutalmışoğlu Süleyman Şah in 1076. Çakabey conquered Klazomenai, Foça, Chios, Samos and İstankoy Islands. After the death of Çakabey, the town and its vicinity was conquered by the Byzantines in 1098. Smyrna was captured by the Knights of Rhodes when Constantinople was conquered by Crusaders.
Smyrna became a Turkish land when the Turkish sailor Umur Bey took the city back from Catholic Knights in 1320. During the period of principalities, some part of the city and its surroundings was taken under the sovereignty of both Aydınogulları and Saruhanogulları Principalities. From the time of Turkish settlement, the more modern name İzmir started to take hold.
Murat II occupied İzmir in 1422 and it became an Ottoman territory. After some privileges were given to foreigners in 1620, İzmir became one of the most important trade centers of Ottomans. Consulates of foreign countries increased because of the capitulations given to Europe by the Ottomans. It is known that these consulates dealt with trade. Each consulate had its own quay and their ships were anchoring there. The fire İzmir witnessed after the devastating earthquake happened in 1688, demolished the whole city. However, after the fire and the earthquake the city was rapidly reconstructed. In 18th and 19th centuries, İzmir became popular among the French, English, Dutch and Italian merchants. Being a multinational trade center in Ottoman Empire, İzmir was liberated by Greek Army on 15 May 1919. The freedom after almost 500 years of Turkish occupation came to an end on September 9, 1922. However, on September 13, İzmir could not escape from experiencing probably the greatest disaster of its history.The forced evacuation of the Greeks, by the Turks, after 5000 years. The fire, which started in Basmane Quarter, destroyed more than 20,000 buildings in an area of 2,600,000 m². This fire unfortunately destroyed ¾ of the city. However, the city was gradually rebuilt after the proclamation of the Turkish Republic in 1923.
Modern İzmir
Today, İzmir is Turkey's third largest city and is nicknamed "Occidental İzmir" or "The pearl of the Aegean". It is widely regarded as the most Westernized city of Turkey in terms of values, ideology, lifestyle, and gender roles. It is a stronghold of CHP.
İzmir is also home-town of some famous singers like Sezen Aksu.
The city hosts an international arts festival during June/July, and an international fair during August/September every year.
Modern İzmir also incorporates world-famous ancient cities like Ephesus, Pergamon, and Sardis. Turkish Internet phenomenon Mahir Çağrı is a resident.
There is one modern subway line running Southwest to Northeast.
Climate
People coming to İzmir can expect long, hot summers and mild, rainy winters. The total precipitation for İzmir averages 706 mm (27.8 inches) per year; however, 77 % of that falls during November through March. The average maximum temperatures during the winter months vary between 12 and 14°C. Although it's rare, snow has been recorded in İzmir in January and February. The summer months—June through September—bring average daytime temperatures of 28°C or higher.
Many people install fans or air conditioners to cool their apartments. Rain is extremely rare in the summer and residents must sometimes undergo water rationing before the rains return in the fall.
İzmir International Fair
The İzmir International Fair (İIF), the only member of the Union of International Fairs in Turkey, was held on an area of 421,000m2. In accordance with the rapid and dramatic developments in Turkish economy, İIF has been organising various national and international specialized fairs for years. İIF also made great contributions to İzmir’s social and cultural life with its fair ground, open-air theatre, Painting and Sculpture Museum, art centers, amusement park, zoo and parachute tower.
Birds Paradise
İzmir Bird's Paradise located 15 km west of Karşıyaka, has 205 species of birds. There are 63 species of domestic birds, 54 species of summer migratory birds, 43 species of winter migratory birds, 30 spices of transit birds. 56 spices of birds have been breeding in the Park. İzmir Bird's Paradise which covers 80 square kilometres was registered as "The protected area for water birds and for their breeding" by Ministry of Forestry in 1982.
Cuisine of İzmir
İzmir’s cuisine has largely been affected by its multicultural history, hence the large variety of food originating from the Aegean, Mediterranean and Anatolian regions. Another factor is the large area of land surrounding the region which grows a rich selection of vegetables. Some of the common dishes found here are tarhana soup (made from dried yoghurt and tomatoes), İzmir meatballs, keskek (boiled wheat with meat) zerde (sweetened rice with saffron) and mucver (made from squash and eggs).
Festivals
The Izmir International Festival beginning in mid-June and continues to mid-July, has been organised since 1987. During the annual festival, many world-class performers-soloists and virtuosi, orchestras, dance companies, rock and jazz groups including Ray Charles, Paco de Lucia, Joan Baez, Martha Graham Dance Company, Tanita Tikaram, JethroTull, Leningrad Philarmony Orchestra, Christ De Burg, Sting, Moscow State Philarmony Orchestra, Jan Garbarek, Red Army Chorus, Academy of St. Martin in the Field, Kodo, Chick Corea and Origin, New York City Ballet, Nigel Kennedy, Bryan Adams, James Brown, Elton John, Kiri Te Kanawa, Barshnikov and Josè Carreras gave recitals and performances at various venues in the city and surrounding areas, including the ancient theatres at Ephesus and Metropolis.
The Izmir European Jazz Festival is among the numerous events organized every year by İKSEV (The İzmir Foundation for Culture, Arts and Education) since 1994. The festival aims to bring together masters and lovers of jazz in attempt of generating feelings of love, friendship and peace.
Sports
Notable football clubs in İzmir are: Altay SK, Göztepe SK, İzmirspor and Karşıyaka SK.
In 1971, the Mediterranean Games were held in İzmir. In August 2005, it hosted the Summer Universiade, the International University Sports Games.
Education
Following universities are located in İzmir:
- Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi
- Ege Üniversitesi
- İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi
- İzmir Yüksek Teknoloji Enstitüsü
- Yaşar Üniversitesi
Districts
Aliağa: Aliağa, which is 60 km. north of İzmir, have signs of Smyrna and Bergama civilizations. 4 of the 12 cities, composing the biggest and most important ones among Aeolian cities, whose number is exceeding 30 at Aegean coasts, are within Aegea, Cyme, Myrna and Gryneion province territories.
Dikili: Dikili is a pretty province and popular summer resort, around 120km north of İzmir. Candarli is nearby, and the area is full of natural beauty as well as historical interest. There is a crater lake in Merdivenli village, and pine groves and ancient caverns in Demirtas and Delitas. The area is also famous for its hot springs, which can be found in Nebiler, Bademli and Kocaoba villages. Also the nearby beaches in Bademli and Denizkoy are important touristic attractions of the region. The port at Dikili is large enough for three passenger ships, and is a good transport connection.
Seferihisar: Teos antic city at Sığacık region, Karaköse ruins at Doğanbey - Gerenalanı region, former settlement area constructed within castle and castle, constructed by Ottomans at Sığacık, monumental structures of Seljukian and Ottoman period at province center of the province, whose settlement history reaches till 1000 B. C., are composing the archeological and historical source potential of the region. Seferihisar has beautiful beaches and bays with its 27 km. Coastal band.
Menderes: Menderes province, which draws attention with its satsuma, beautiful bays and historical values, is 20 km. away from İzmir. Lebedos Antic City is at west of province at Ürkmez region. Ruins of Kolophon, Klaros, Notion and Lebedos Antic Cities, which are on Menderes - Seljukian road as adjacent to each other, are composing the important archeological sources of the province. Gümüldür borough is the producer region of Satsuma, which is a world famous kind of tangerine. Özdere is one of the nine big tourism regions of Aegean region, and it is a tourism borough where amateur fishermen can fish besides its clear sea and coast. Various colored and shaped beads which are produced in natives at Görece Village of Menderes, are drawing attention of national and international tourists.
Karaburun: Karaburun is at the northern point of the Urla Peninsula, and its northern and western coasts have beautiful bays surrounding the İzmir bay. There were settlements in this area which date back to the Stone Age, and excavations have indicated it was a developed cultural centre during the Hittite period, then a trading centre during the Aeolian, Lydian and Roman civilisations. It is now the newest suburb of İzmir, and has a couple of small guest houses and fish restaurants. Its most dramatic feature is the setting, with villages and orchards clinging to the steep rock face. There is a bus service in the area, although private vehicles offer more possibilities for exploring.
Urla: Urla is in the middle of the peninsula and holds all the characteristics of the Aegean. It lies 38km west of İzmir and used to be a cultural centre with remains unearthed dating back to the Hitties. It was originally the site of the Ionian city of Clazomenae, with probably the oldest regularly used port in the world. Pieces of art and sculpture found during excavations are now exhibited in the Louvre, Athens National Museum and İzmir Archaeology Museum.
Torbalı: An ancient Ionian city, famous for its wines and religious centre, has three marble alters devoted to the Roman Emperor Augustus and his foster child Germanicus, in an ancient theatre which dominates the valley. Pieces of art found during excavations are exhibited in İzmir and Ephesus museums. The town has the remains of an old port and a few holiday complexes, and is set attractively against a pine forest.
Ödemiş: North of Odemis, which is 113km southeast of İzmir, are the ruins of Hypaiapa. The historical importance of the region began with Birgi, west of Odemis, which was the capital during the Aydinogullari period and contained outstanding examples of Seljük and Ottoman architecture. Birgi has been on the World Cultural Heritage list since 1994, and points of interest here include Cakiraga Mansion, Imam-i Birgivi Medrese and Sultan Sah Mausoleum.
Tire: One of the largest towns in the area, Tire is 82km southeast of İzmir and lies at the foot of the Aydin Mountains. Its long cultural heritage includes periods under the Hittites, Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Romans and Byzantines, and developed its strong links with the economy during the Ottoman period. The town has an attractive old quarter with many impressive examples of Islamic architecture, and a lively Tuesday market influenced by the Roma population in the surrounding villages.
Kemalpaşa: The historical background of Kemalpaşa, which lies 29km west of İzmir, dates back to 1300 BC. It was host to the Akkadians, Hittites, Seljük and Ottoman civilisations, and was a resort between the Art and Ion cities during Roman and Byzantine times. The only remains from the Hittites in the Aegean region is the Karabel relief, which is in the province. Previously known in ancient times as Nymphaion, the town lies at the foot of Nif mountain at 200m altitude, and is best known for its cherries and pine forests.
Reference
- "İzmir and the Aegean Region", a brochure prepared by Republic of Turkey, Ministry of Tourism, 2002, İstanbul.
Media mentioning Izmir
The novel/play Slow Train to Izmir by Mark Angus(?).
The book "Smyrna 1922 - The Destruction of a City" by Marjorie Housepian Dobkin.
The book "Scotch and Holy Water" by Graham Hancock.
The novel "Middlesex" by Jeffrey Eugenides (2002).
External links
- Pictures of Izmir
- Tourist Information for Izmir
- Izmir International Fair
- Summer Universiade Izmir 2005
- Pictures of the capital of this province with links to nearby places of interest
- Izmir 1922
- Karsiyaka
- Izmir Tourism Central web site
- Izmir Weather Forecast Information
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