Dispersion (water waves)

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Dispersion of water wave usually refers to frequency dispersion. Thus, waves with longer wavelength and period travel faster than those with shorter wavelength and period. This phenomenon is expressed by the so-called dispersion relationship, <math> \omega^2 = gk ~ {\rm{tanh}} (kh) </math>. Then, the wave celerity is <math> C = \sqrt{ \frac{g}{k} ~ {\rm{tanh}} (kh)} </math>.


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