Fancy rat

From Freepedia

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The fancy (or pet) rat is a domesticated breed of the Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus). The name "fancy rat" has nothing to do with the "fanciness" of their appearance but derives from the meaning of "to fancy," i.e. "to like": "I quite fancy her." Thus one who keeps pet rats is said to be involved in the "rat fancy."

The origin of the fancy rat is probably the rat-catchers of the late 19th century who trapped rats and were paid by town governments per rat, and who also kept certain rats for exhibition/gambling fights. They began breeding rats (possibly to collect more money from the towns, or because it was easier than catching new ones all the time), and became attached to some as they discovered how intelligent and trainable rats can be. One of the most famous of these rat catchers was Jack Black, ratcatcher to Queen Victoria, who became known for breeding and selling pet rats around 1840-1860. Rats became more and more domesticated and people enjoyed them since they are easily bred, social, intelligent, and clean pets. The first rat show was held in 1901 in England. Beatrix Potter, author of the "Peter Rabbit" series of children's books, had a white pet rat of which she was very fond. Ratkeeping grew in popularity in the 1970s, leading to the formation of the National Fancy Rat Society in 1976.

As in other pet species, a variety of colors, coat types, and other features that do not appear in the wild have arisen in pet rats through selective breeding. Some pet rats retain the "agouti" (two tones on the same hair) coloring of the wild brown rat, but other colors available now include blue, silver, black, white, pearl, fawn/champagne/beige, and red/cinnamon. In addition to solid colors and the "Berkshire" pattern (colored top, white under), there are many different markings, including one similar to Siamese cats (with seal or blue points), merle spotting, Dalmatian spotting, blazes, hoods (darker color on the head, shoulders and spine, generally a white body), caps (dark only on the head), and masks (only around the eyes), and "downunders", an Australian variety that has rapidly gained favour in Europe, which have markings on the belly that correspond to those on top. Rex coats are curlier (the whiskers are also curled), and satin coats are extra soft and shiny; several different genetic traits can produce hairless (or partly hairless) rats. "Dumbo" rats, which emerged as a new variety in the US and have now attained "Guide Variety" status in the UK, have ears which are lower on the sides of the head than normal "top"-eared rats, and genetically tailless rats are called "manx" just like tailless cats (manx rats come in the same stumpy, rumpy, and rumpy-riser varieties as Manx cats).

There is controversy amongst rat fanciers if breeding hairless or tailless rats is ethically right. The tail is vital for rats' balance and for adjusting body temperature. Tailless rats have greater risk of heat exhaustion and falling too high. Similarly, hairless rats are missing their warmth-preserving coating and are more likely to be adversely affected by the cold.

Rats make excellent pets for urbanites with small apartments, as they bond with humans and offer much in the way of affection and entertaining activity, but require less space indoors (and don't need to be taken outside at all). Though they do urinate occasionally when allowed to wander outside the cage, the smell and damage to flooring is nothing like that from cats or dogs. They do have a tendency to gnaw, but this can be mitigated with chew toys. They are less costly to feed than cats or dogs (a basic rat chow can be supplemented with many leftovers from the human table, as they are omnivores; however, see the Food section, below). Their veterinary care, however, is just as expensive.

Although rats are generally nocturnal, many pet rat owners have found their fancy rats to be crepuscular instead: most active for a few hours around dawn and dusk, napping for a few hours at a stretch between these times.

Rats are social creatures, best kept in same-sex pairings or groups. Pet rats live on average 2-3 years, though the oldest rat on record - a lab rat called Rodney - reached a purported age of 7 years and 4 months according to the 1995 Guinness Book of Records. Bucks (male rats) reach an average weight of 500g whilst does (female rats) can reach up to 300g.

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Housing

Rats can be kept both in cages and in terrariums, both of which are available in pet stores. However, cages with thin bars (thick wire) are strongly preferred, as rats need to climb for proper exercise and mental stimulation. Rats enjoy climbing the cage walls (the cage should have horizontal and vertical bars) and use their noses to sample the scents of the outside world (scent is very important to rats.) Rats kept in glass terrariums cannot climb, become lethargic and sometimes shown signs of psychological distress; besides, the lack of air renewal makes rats more likely to get pulmonary problems. Housing with solid flooring may be preferable as incomplete evidence suggests that wire flooring may be linked with a foot infection known as "bumblefoot." (Merck Veterinary Manual online, 2003) Solid flooring may also be easier to clean, a factor crucial to maintaining optimum respiratory and overall health.[1]

Despite a rat's modest size, appropriate housings should always have a floor space of at least 24 by 12 inches, and at least 24 inches in height. If affordable, larger cages with multiple levels are preferable. A bigger, more interesting home will lengthen the rat's lifespan and provide both the rat and the owner with more entertainment.

The perfect place for the rat's home is a well-lit room of constant, moderate temperature (18 to 26°C, 64 to 80°F). Do not place the cage in direct sunlight which could cause dangerous overheating. When wire cages are used, it is especially important to avoid air drafts. Though they cannot see very far, rats become more relaxed and curious when positioned somewhat above the ground (at least 65 cm (2 feet)), from where they can perceive their surroundings.

Various types of litter can be used to cover the base of the cage; most rat societies advocate the use of a good recycled-paper-based litter, aspen shavings, cornhusk, hemp or shredded paper. Softwood shavings like pine and cedar should be avoided, as the phenols given off by this type of wood can cause serious respiratory and/or liver damage in rats.

Regular cleaning of a rat's home is crucial for the pet's health. The home must be cleaned at least once a week by replacing the soiled bedding where necessary. Another important component is a hiding place, where the animal can rest during the day. Not all commercially available houses are adequate. The hiding houses should be of sufficient size and be closed on at least three sides. The same building materials are appropriate for these as for the larger cages, although even a small cardboard box will work (however, such will have to be regularly replaced). Some houses add features such as a removable roof that helps take away collected food (especially perishable items).

Like all rodents, their teeth grow continuously. Rats with healthy, properly aligned teeth will grind them together and maintain a proper length even if they are never allowed to chew on anything. The notion that a healthy rat's teeth (versus those born or otherwise affected with misaligned teeth) will grow out of control without hard items to chew on is an old wives' tale. However, chewing is both entertaining and psychologically soothing for them, and in the absence of appropriate chew toys they might start chewing on inappropriate items (like your furniture). Rats must be kept in enclosures that they cannot chew through, so wood and/or plastic cages are not appropriate.

Some cheap and effective chew toys for rats are: branches or pieces of non-toxic organic wood (maple, oak, apple...), flavored nylon chew toys for dogs, and chicken or steak bones. Unlike with dogs or cats, a rat won't choke on bones because they slowly wear away the bone by gnawing on it. A dog or cat may try to crush the bone with their teeth, which causes the dangerous splintering.

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Exercise and entertainment

Like all pets, rats need exercise and entertainment to maintain their physical and mental health. An exercise wheel allows rats to run full speed to their hearts' content, although some rats show no interest in them. Open metal wheels with a slotted floor are very dangerous to their tails and legs. If a tail or leg gets caught between the bars it can easily be broken. Several companies now make solid floored plastic wheels that are tail/leg safe and strong enough to accommodate a rat’s weight.

If they are handled frequently, rats enjoy being out of their enclosures and having the opportunity to explore. However, they must be kept away from holes in the wall or in large pieces of furniture, because they sometimes seek out the dark and burrow-like confines of those areas and it can be difficult to convince them to come out again.

Training any animal takes a great investment of time and energy. All rats have the ability to learn to recognize their name and come when called. This is especially helpful if your pet is ever lost in the house. It is relatively easy to train a rat to use a litter tray or pan, and some people have even housebroken their pet rats and let them run free in a rat-proofed room. The full extent of a rat's ability to be trained through patience and the use of treats as rewards can be seen in the popularity of rat agility classes at many rat shows.

Food

Pet stores can provide basic food for rats that provides their nutritional needs, but they also enjoy fresh vegetables and fruits, and small amounts of cooked chicken or beef (cooled to a safe temperature, without spices or sauces). The diet should optimally not comprise of more than 25% animal protein. Studies have shown that high protein intake shortens their lifespan and increases the likelihood of kidney trouble. A belief is that some rats may develop "protein sores" at levels over 25%, however this correlation is not scientifically proven. It is also possible that a large consumption of certain types of proteins (seeds or dairy) can induce allergic reactions in certain rats. Rats love to eat frozen peas and small amounts of sweet corn on the cob

Not all foods are suitable for rats. Certain foods like raw beans and sweets/candies are not recommended. Many household plants, like the leaves of the tomato, are poisonous and dangerous to a rat's health. Like with most other animals (including humans), rats show poor judgement when it comes to food. Rats are often unable to decide which foods are good for them and consequently they will usually eat anything that is offered. Unlike with dogs (and other domestic animals) chocolate is completely non-toxic to rats, but it should only be fed in small quantities because it is very high in food energy and sugar. Due to its beneficial effect as a bronchodilator it can be useful to offer a small amount of good quality dark chocolate to rats suffering from respiratory problems.

Rats should also always have fresh water available. Appropriate drinking devices such as gravity drip-feed bottles can be found in stores. Both water and vegetables must be fresh and have to be exchanged frequently, usually once a day. Water must not be given in open jars, since it is likely to get polluted, or spilled.

Solid food components can be divided into three categories: dry, fresh, and animal food. Dry food usually makes up the main part in this listing. Many pet stores now stock commercial rat mixes and lab blocks specifically designed to cater to the dietary needs of rats, as most ordinary rodent mixes usually contain too high a level of fatty seeds and not enough protein. Most other kinds of seeds, kernels, and nuts can be given. Care should be taken to limit the amount of fat contained within the diet. Especially sunflower seeds, nuts, almonds, and sesame are most nutritive and are to be considered as a treat rather than as basic food. It is becoming common practice among many ratbreeders to make up their own mixes which often contain a balanced blend of cereals, whole grains, and puppy biscuits amongst other ingredients; dried corn should be avoided because it may contain fungus and will create carcinogenic nitrosamines in the stomach.

Debbie Ducommun, founder of The Rat Fan Club [2] and author of several rat care articles and literature (Rats: Complete Care Guide, BowTie Press, 2002) has designed her own homemade rat diet incorporating the nutritional requirements of rats established by the National Research Council. A free, complete description of this diet may be accessed via The Rat Fan Club’s website: http://www.ratfanclub.org/diet.html.

Poisonous plants (check all indoor plants) may constitute a danger; particularly as rats are not able to vomit and therefore cannot regurgitate the poisonous matter.

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Common Health Issues

Rats are prone to upper respiratory problems. These problems are many times connected with the mycoplasma bacterium, which makes the rat more prone to other bacterial infections. A rat may start sneezing and a red, blood-like substance named porphyrin can many times be seen from his eyes and nose. This is normal for a rat with respiratory problems and is considered one of the first signs something is wrong. Echinacea solution mixed with their drinking water will many times provide the necessary boost to their defense and keep a more serious problem away. If the rat begins a rattling noise from their lungs, loses appetite, assumes an arched back position or seems lethargic, it is necessary to take the rat as soon as possible to a veterinarian for aggressive antibiotic treatment.

Rats frequently show lumps on their bodies, which can be caused by a tumor or an abcess. Either way, it is recommended that the rat be taken to the veterinarian for treatment. Tumors are seen most frequently on females, since their mammary tissue is spread through most of their underbelly. Most tumors start out as benign tumors and after removal the rat can live normally. Abcesses will need to be drained of the infection and an antibiotic may be prescribed.

Bumblefoot (ulcerative pododermatitis) is a bacterial infection of the foot that may be associated with wire-floor cages, genetic factors, and/or an unsanitary living environment [3], although no conclusive evidence yet exists that would directly link this infection to these factors. Bumblefoot is so named because of the characteristic "bumbles" or lesions as well as swelling of the foot pad symptomatic of an infection. Topical antiseptics such as Blue-Kote in addition to oral or injected antibiotics may be used to combat the infection, which if left untreated may be fatal.[4][5]

Senior rats develop a variety of illnesses. Senior animals develop arthritis, strokes, and neurological disorders. Some rats are subject to hip dysplasia. A senior rat may live months or even years past the onset of his first illnesses depending on the type and severity of the illness. Weight loss is not uncommon in older rats, although anorexia or severe or rapid weight loss may be a sign of a more serious underlying medical condition, in which case vet consulation is necessary.

Parasitic pests such as rodent lice can live in wood pulp and paper pulp. It is commonly stated that poor cleaning, or bad care is the cause for lice in rats and mice, but actually dormant eggs can even exist in store-bought bedding. To help keep mites and lice off of your animal, you can put the bedding into a paper bag, and microwave it for ten seconds. This will kill any larvae or eggs found in the bedding materials.

Lice may be visible white or red, possibly moving specks as well as nits attached to fur. Signs of an infestation of mites, which are microscopic organisms, may include a "fine bran like substance" (Rat Guide, 2005) present on the fur or skin of the animal, crusted skin lesions and/or a red bumpy rash visible on exposed skin. Common parasites seen on pet rats include the rat louse, Polyplax spinulosa; fur mite, Radfordia ensifera; tropical rat mite, Ornithonyssus bacoti; and the spiny rat mite, Laelaps echidninus. A skin scraping may be performed by a veterinarian to determine the presence of microscopic parasites, but this method of diagnosis may be painful to the animal and may produce a false negative result. If mites or lice are suspected, the rat can be treated with ivermectin, available through your veterinarian. Inexperienced pet owners not familiar with the correct dosage of this product are strongly advised to consult a veterinarian. Doses are typically given weekly for four to six weeks, or until all signs of lice and mites are gone. An antibiotic may be warranted to prevent infection if skin lesions are present.


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Domestic Rats in Film, Television, Theater and Literature

Since Muybridge's first films, rats have been widely used in entertainment media. Due to their intelligent nature, rats have appeared in over 413 major film releases throughout the world, and in at least seventy-one television series.

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